Anne:
I converted my '99 28' Safari to a dual battery setup. I use 2 Trojan 6V golf cart batteries. I was able to purchase a battery box that fit between the rails where the old battery was on the tongue. I had a friend fabricate a new metal frame that I simply bolted on top of the existing battery support. That frame holds the battery box in place.
In May of this year I installed a 150watt solar system that I purchased from AM Solar in Oregon. They are great folks to deal with and have a great rep in the AS community. The install was fairly easy. The easiest part was putting the panels on the roof. I used the supplied 3M tape and didn't have to drill any holes. The tape is holding up well and other folks have positive long term experience with that product. I wanted to avoid drilling new holes if I could, Airstreams can have enough leak problems!
I fed the wires down the fridge vent and then ran them up to the solar controller that I had installed under the couch. I put the "remote" control for the controller in one of the end panel "blanks" in the cabinet above the sofa. The hardest part of the job was removing the microwave/pantry cabinet so I could run the wires from the fridge cabinet to the front. There is a wire chase along the wall where the fold out table and small cabinet are located, but unfortunately that chase does run behind the pantry, hence having to remove that piece.
The system works well. Where I store my trailer behind my house in the downtown historic district of Frederick, I don't have hooks ups. so it is nice being able to keep the batteries on all of the time. Now I can keep by rain sensor Fantastic Fan vents open and not worry if it rains. Plus the panels keep a perfect charge on the batteries
I would send some photos but we are in Los Alamos, N.M. this week (sans AS). I do have some photos posted in a solar panel thread on the Airforums, but I don't know if Hunter would like it if I posted a link to that site! If it is ok with her I could post a link later today when we get back from Taos. Or I could load some on here if I get time later today or tomorrow.
You are more than welcome to check it out if you want to cruise up to Frederick when are home.
BTW, to date we havent' had any problems with the dead bolt. However, we never use it (the trailers are easy enough for folks to break into, dead bolt or not) and if I thought it was going to be a problem, I guess I would just remove it. Ours operates rather stiff and I don't think it would move by itself. That doesn't mean others haven't had problems with theirs.
Dennie
--- In AirstreamList@yahoogroups.com, Tony Turner <turners@...> wrote:
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2011, at 5:51 AM, Anne Pearse Hocker wrote:
>
> What I meant to ask was how involved the electrical upgrade would be (so I can be better educated when I take it to someone to upgrade it for me).,,,
>
> And is it possible (or recommended) to replace the door lock so the dead bolt can't be accidentally activated? Is there an upgrade that doesn't rely on duct tape and extra keys? (although I'll have extra keys).,,,
>
> Anne in VA, shifting into second
> ------------------------------------
>
> The batteries are just connected in parallel (positive to positive and negative to negative) with large wire (about as big as your little finger) and securely mounted to the trailer. If they are outside then they should be in a protective plastic box.
>
> I removed the little slide dead bolt on my trailer because they have a reputation for locking if the wind blows the door shut. If you remove the inside door handle assembly (just three screws in my case) the slide bolt is easy to remove. I've since installed a keyed dead bolt in the door frame next to the door. There is considerable discussion on dead bolt installation in the archives so I won't rehash that now. In truth I seldom use the dead bolt but it's nice to have it there when overnighting in a rest area.
>
> Tony
> 2000 Airstream Classic 28'
> 2009 Chevy Duramax / Allison
>
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