Thanks Daisy, that seems to be a good plan of attack. I wll order the Sharkhyde and do as you say.
Rob Michler Robert L Michler Real Estate Property Management License # 01199416 4242-Sunset-Blvd #5 Los Angeles, CA 90029 323-228-0280 cell 323-669-1087 fax
>________________________________
>From: D Welch <jtdjtd@tiac.net>
>To: AirstreamList@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 8:41 AM
>Subject: Re: [A/S] Re: Corrosion
>
>
>
>Rob,
>
>To really clean it up and fix it, you would have to remove the clear
>coat in the general area, repolish the aluminum, and then clear coat it
>again, being sure to get the clear coat into the area around the
>rivets. The clear coat you should use must be sprayed on by a
>professional, and is toxic. Plus, it would probably be better to have
>the whole trailer stripped, polished and recoated. Which will cost a
>fortune, and I don't even know if the newer clear coat put on the sheets
>at the factory by Alcoa will strip....
>
>Here's what I would do.
>
>Use a plastic or wooden scraper to remove anything that is loose, then
>use a mild metal polish ( I would probably use sliver polish) to get rid
>of the black tarnish. Then I would REALLY clean it all up with mineral
>spirits to make sure there is no dirt, grease or cleaner there.
>
>Now, to protect the bare aluminum is the tricky part. I bought and used
>an aluminum sealer called Sharkhide. It was originally developed to
>protect aluminum aircraft skins, now it's being marketed for aluminum
>boats, especially the aluminum pontoons. It puts a protective layer on
>that should last for a couple of years. I put it on my trailer, which
>does have clear coat, to protect it, and it made it look great.
>
>It is (I think) a lacquer based product well dissolved in a very
>volatile base. The idea is to take a clean soft rag ( they recommend new
>cloth baby diapers), saturate the cloth and wipe it quickly in
>overlapping swipes. It dries really fast, so you have to keep moving. I
>would try to do it when the temp is low, to slow the evaporation. You
>can put on a second coat in a few days.
>
>I don't think anything in a spray can or used with a brush is going to
>give you as good a result as this stuff, although it is tricky to apply
>
>http://www.sharkhide.com/
>
>You could also put a good wax on the bare patch, but you would have to
>rewax it pretty often.
>
>Daisy
>
>On 1/21/2012 9:26 AM, Robert Michler wrote:
>> Everyone seems to know what it is and they tell me to clean it up and apply new Airstream clear coat. Nobody has told me the best methode of cleaning it up. I don't want to do more damage. Should I use brass cleaner, Neverdull, steele wool??? What cleans it up? Bar Keepers Friend? Rubbing compound for cars?
>>
>>
>> Rob Michler Robert L Michler Real Estate Property Management License # 01199416 4242-Sunset-Blvd #5 Los Angeles, CA 90029 323-228-0280 cell 323-669-1087 fax
>>
>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Paul Goff<goff.pa@gmail.com>
>>> To: AirstreamList@yahoogroups.com
>>> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 7:19 AM
>>> Subject: [A/S] Re: Corrosion
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There is an extensive history of filiform type corrosion on models of
>>> Airstream since 2001. See the Air Forums and search filiform corrosion
>>> or read through this:
>>>
>>> http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142/corrosion-problems-with-new-airstreams-31743.html
>>>
>>> I've found it on my 2006 Safari, fortunately not too extensive and it
>>> appears to be stable.
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
>
>
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