On 4/17/2012 3:58 PM, Anne Pearse Hocker wrote:
> OK, back from meddlesome errands and ready to tackle the water pump situation. I took off the interior panel to the water pump (anyone have a quick release system that bypasses the six or more different sized screws for this?) and ran the water pump for some time. No evidence of leaks around the pump or the lines leading to or from it. I checked the attached filter, also dry. The lines are the hard plastic semi-opaque type. The pump continued to burp on and off about every 30 sec. I turned off the pump, hooked up city water, and it's been on for about 45 min now. No sign of any overflow yet. I am also testing my water heater right now and the burner seems to be working ok. The drain plug, which I wanted to replace with a Hot Rod, has a toggle valve on it for draining and I cannot figure out how to get a wrench in there to remove it. It does drain, and release pressure, through the toggle valve, or whatever it's called. I'm sure there is a simple solution here that I'm too dense to figure out. Does the toggle just screw out? I worked it for a while but it just kept spinning but I might not have worked it far enough. I have limited patience these days. I have the replacement rod already but am afraid to horse the plug out of it, if that makes any kind of sense in Airstream English. My Bambi just had a big bolt for draining and you only had to worry about stripping the edges.
On the outside of the water heater, there are two holes, an upper one
that has a gizmo on it that will let off the pressure if the heater gets
too hot.
The lower one should be just a white plastic bolt. That's the one you
would take out to put in the Hot Rod. It sounds like someone put
something else in there....
On the upper left side of the heater, is a thin aluminum baffle thing.
It is held on by a couple of screws, and if you take it off, then you
can get a wrench in there to loosen the lower bolt . If someone has put
something else there, you still need a wrench to get it off, and still
need to take off that baffle to get at it. You will need to do this to
put in the Hot Rod.
I can't remember right now why it's important to open the water
heater.... You definitely should feel all around the water heater
looking for leaks.
If you have had shore water to the trailer, and opened and closed
everything, and you still can't find any leaks ( did you run your
fingers on all the pipes you could reach and feel the floor?) then I'm
inclined to think that the guts of the pump are leaking just enough so
that the pressure goes down and it comes on again, this leak would be
back into the tank, so there would be no puddle.
But that doesn't really explain the dribble coming off the cover of the
water tank.
Feel all around the areas of the tank that you can, especially where the
inlet and outlets are and the nearly useless gauge things.
It is possible that the cycling pump is due to the sad guts, and that
the leak is a different problem. See if you can duplicate the event by
letting the pump run for a goodly time. Or try filling the tank totally
full.
The leak might be in the fill area. The place you screw the fill hose
into is notorious for breaking in behind. That's where the pressure
regulator thingy lives that keeps high pressured water from blowing out
your plumbing (sort of), and it has a one way valve in there too as I
recall. So if you filled the tank until it overflowed, some of the
water may escape, run down under and dribble out. If you can worm your
way to see the inside of the fill area, that might be instructive.
If it makes you feel any better, when this is all done, you will be the
master of your world!
Keep us posted!! this is better than TV!
Daisy
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