Steve,
The fridge won't operate without being hooked up to 12V even on 110. The
control panel is run by 12V.
As someone else already said, don't waste any time or money on the old
converter. Get yourself a new or rebuilt intelipower or similar converter.
I prefer the intelipower. The company sells them new or reconditioned, both
with warranties. They advertise on ebay. You can also get them from CW
($$$). They are much quieter, cooler and do a great job of keeping your
battery charged. The old univolt didn't charge batteries very well. All of
the new intelipowers I've seen have the battery tender built into them.
Can't help with the door or the light. Both my '68 and '77 have two white
backup lights, not a single one. I do have a small light on the side of the
trailer that is designed to light up when 110 is applied to the trailer.
The fridge door on the '68 slides up first then rotates in and down which is
then locked in place with a lock on the bottom of the door. The '77 has an
exterior hinge on the bottom and a lock on the top of the door.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebelzap" <rebelzap@yahoo.com>
To: <AirstreamList@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2011 10:38 AM
Subject: [A/S] Three questions
> Greetings and Happy New Year.
>
> I'm new here and the new owner of a 74 L 23 twin.
> I have an owners manual but as yet haven't found any of these answers.
>
> The access door behind the frig came off and I can't get it to reattach.
> There is a curved ridge on top that has to fit into a slot to be a hinge
> but I can't seem to find where it fits.
>
> It has twin beds on either side of the hall and half way up from the bed
> to the window there is a rail attached to the wall. What's it for ?
>
> On the rear above the bumper storage there is a clear 3/4 in. light. It
> has a diamond shaped lens and I'm sure it's there to tell me something but
> so far it hasn't lit up.
> I suspect this has something to do with 110 power but so far all I get
> when it's plugged in is the receptacles working. Nothing at all out of the
> converter, not even a hum. It has 110 to it and all fuzes are good but no
> output.
>
> I'm going at this slowly and trying not to do any damage. I replaced one
> frozen gas valve to the heater and it and the stove are working but no
> response from the fridge on 110.
> I expect to replace the converter but I plan to pull it out and play with
> it first. It looks like someone has already played with it some.
>
> Thanks
> Steve Bray
> Jackson, Tennessee
>
>
>
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