Anne,
If your fresh water tank was brim full and you left the city water connected over night and the fresh water tank did not show ANY signs of overflowing, your water pump appears to have survived the freeze. I would pretty well take it off the list as a reason why it is cycling. That leaves the plumbing, faucets and lastly, the water heater tank itself. WIth my experience regarding the life and issues with the Atwood water heater, that really has to be investigated as the leak location. The PEX plumbing used in your trailer (the rigid, milky white color indicates it is PEX), is VERY forgiving of freezing. PEX is a cross-link polyethylene product that can expand when frozen. The connections used when PEX are brass and also resistant to freeze damage. Is it possible that you have a slow leak in the plumbing somewhere, including where the PEX connects to the faucets, yes, but unlikely (unless you have had mice or something chewing on it somewhere).
Yes, you still have the original factory pump. I agree with Kevin on carrying a spare as getting parts for the pump can be problematic. My 34ft came with the exact same pump. I upgraded it to an AquaJet pump (my Bambi came with the AquaJet). The AquaJet is a variable speed, higher capacity pump. The Shurflo is a 3 chamber pump that cycles between completely off and complete on based on pressure. The AquaJet is a 5 chamber pump where the operation is based on flow demand. Low demand, low speed, high demand, high speed. It run quieter as a result. Shurflo now makes a similar pump, but I really like the AquaJet. I had freeze damage to the one in our Bambi (ice crystals penetrated the diaphragm). I called AquaJet and they sent me all the parts to repair it FREE and they arrived overnight again at no charge. Great people to work with.
Again, I would put the water heater valves in bypass mode (with or without draining it) and then see if the pump still cycles. If it no longer cycles, then the problem is related to the water heater. It could be the connections on the back of the water heater or the tank, assuming that you had verified that the overtemp/everpressure relief valve is not leaking. If the pump still is cycling with the water heater valves in bypass mode, the valves could still be allowing some water to leak into the tank. That is why I recommended that you drain the tank, leave the drain plug out and watch for any more or less constant drips from the drain with the valves in bypass mode.
I took a look at your water heater pics and that is indeed a petcock. Your simply turn it to open and drain the tank. It is directly screwed into the tank and that is a brass to aluminum situation and the petcock may be pretty well seized due to galvanic action between the two metals. If you open the petcock while the water heater valves are set to bypass, you really should not get any ongoing drips from the petcock. BTW, it is normal for small white lumps (corrosion from inside the tank) to be ejected while draining. I always drain and refill mine multiple times to clear out that loose corrosion as Atwood told me it does accelerate the failure of the tank.
If the pump stops cycling with the water heater in bypass, you either have a connection leaking on the back of the water heater or the tank itself is likely riddled with pinholes.
david
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